it would be far cheaper to go to a steel market and get a regular MS plate about 1 inch thick, and ask them to plasma cut it according to your headgasket and cylinder bolt holes - get 8.8 bolts for your plate not 10.9 - 10.9 are harder but brittle too. Get your machinist to polish the plate dead square on his mill.
Install and tighten as per spec, similarly install a junk crank and tighten the main caps - do all this while the block is resting on its own weight and not hanging off a stand.
For the clearance, you need a bit loose on full forged pistons and use a big mircometer to measure the skirt and a bore gauge to measure then calculate the clearance - most (read as all) machine shops use steel feeler gauges to determine clearance, it may be OK for a jing long generator but not any engine im building. The really oldschool machinists would use string type feeler gauges and push a piston in the bore, It was good but nothing beats precision tools.
The most important bit is the ring gap, rings expand a lot under heat and you need to account for it, You also need to chamfer the edges of the rings when you set the gap. Otherwise it may pinch it and you then lose compression as the ring is not pushing into the cylinder under combustion pressure.
You have got yourself 0.50mm oversize pistons aka 0.020" (imperial), you cannot buy 0.02mm oversize pistons for almost no engine - the difference would be really small and useless IMO.