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Sep 2023
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Oct 2023
Nov 2023

AoA, I need help regarding Sonatas coolant.

I recently purchased 2021 sonata and after a few days noted that coolants colour is dark pink to brown. After a bit of search and help from dealership came to know to previous owner might have put greeni IAT based coolant to top-up.

I, to be on the safe side, got new pink coolant by Toyota since Hyundai were offering zic sk green. Hyundai Islamabad got all the coolant out but didn't flushed it wath water and poured in the new one. Now the new one does not appear to be bright pink as I have seen in other sonatas its shade is a bit on the darker side

Now my question is

1) is it all fine as far as the procedure is concerned
2) do I need to do anything else or continue with the same one. Any dangers or risks to the car

Your help will be highly appreciated

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    Sep '23
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    Nov '23
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Your dealership probably got the most junior helper to “drain and fill the coolant” as they know customer doesnt know.

The correct way is to use 3 gallons coolant, one to flush out the old stuff with hoses removed, then two to fill up the rest. In reality they should have a coolant exchange machine in the dealership but as its Pakistan they wont have it because saith sb franchise owner needs all his money.

Anyway. If kia/hyundai dealer is selling zic green coolant over parts counter they are more stupid than an intoxicated heroinchi. The zic coolant is a hybrid oat with silicated salts (like the old green from the 80s) mixing that with a japanese origin phosphated salts coolant causes precipitation of the coolant mix which then becomes corrosive and abrasive too.

Tl;dr - dont let morons do their “saainsdaani on your car because in the end you will be financing that saainsdaani”

Are they assuming people will believe them when they say zic is korean, hyundai is korean, hence aik hi baat hai.

On the work standard front. I asked some friend to get battery of sonata from Faisalabad since I was at remote location of Sindh at that time. I was astonished to know that people in Faisalabad are putting DIN666 60 amp battery when original is 68 amp. So much so that few are modifying bay to put normal height non DIN standard battery

This was the coolant that came out of the car.

So should I repeat the process or will the current coolant work?

As I mentioned in the Sonata Owners club, an Ustaad sahab was also trying to sell me a battery by saying kay sir hum har Sonata mei yehi daal rahay. Dimensions are wrong phir Ustaad sahab jugaar kartay hain.
I hate to say this but even the basic new cars are difficult to maintain sometimes because of these Siaasatdaans.

28 days later

better is to get another pack of toyota pink coolant premix long life 50/50 gallon box (3.78 Litres). drain the current one and fill in the new one. just to be sure that all previous coolant has been flushed you can follow the procedure detailed by Xulfiqar. however if u just flush and fill in new pack i think it should suffice anyway

you are right. however there seems to be some difference in understanding of local kia and hyundai. all hyundai vehicles locally assembled are coming with red hoat coolant. whereas all kia ones are coming with green iat coolant.

even when they have the same engine like in the case of 2.0 litre petrol engine in sportage, tuscon, elantra and sonata.

how come they are using different types of coolant for the same engine? is it correct?

mixing the 2 of them is surely not correct.

but per say if we have total green coolant or total pink/red coolant is it ok?

The green is not IAT, its actually an SLLC PHOAT coolant which is the same as mazda's FL22 coolant. Mazda one has extra dosage of dye to make it look an evil dark green though and one more additive that allows it to be used till 10 years from initial fill. The hyundai one is a lighter shade as we used to see in older nissans and subarus and also older mazdas (1996-2004)

The pink and green are fully miscible but will result in an ink black coolant.

By no reasoning or pressure, do not add IAT coolant to these P-HOAT coolants unless you want to spend about 30 hours trying to clean the sludge and gummy mess that results.

Hyundai and Kia have both coolants available for sale in the global market, all electric vehicles are coming prefilled with the green coolant while passenger cars under Hyundai name have the pink stuff (which is same 98% as toyota SLLC)

Sir the honda coolant is also light green whereas all the toyotas I have driven were having pink coolant.

Honda light green is old LLC P-HOAT coolant. (also called type1) - its not regular oldschool IAT stuff, dont mix them together.

Honda Atlas in Pakistan is using green type 2 coolant (ethylene glycol based) in their cars.

I once flushed the green coolant and refilled new toyota LLC pink (50/50 Premix) in Reborn R18. worked best no issues ever AL HAMD U LILLAH.

The honda type2 and toyota sllc pink are the same item in different shades, good thing about toyota is that their coolant isnt affected by UV unlike the blue honda.

Problem in flushing and filling with sllc is that you need to waste a bit of coolant as its a premix otherwise if you waterflush and fill the system, you will end up with a lower concentration than 50%

And sllc pink is extremely sensitive to hard water, it can precipitate out with hard and chlorinated water.

The 8th Gen Civic R18A has a sticker under the hood that specifically asks for Type 2, so this is very important to keep in mind, if anyone is reading. Honda doesn't automatically mean "compatible."

Thank you for this, I need to do a coolant flush on an 8th Gen Civic that's been running on water for 100,000+ kilometers, overflow tank empty and caked with rust. BASF G48 is only available in one place, dubious supply, and very expensive, so I was thinking of going Havoline Orange because of its availability, but Toyota pink premix is not much less common.

Completely unrelated: which coolants are safe to mix with / of similar formulation to BASF G48, apart from G05?

BASF Glysantin G48 is miscible with G05 and a bit with G40 only. It is also compatible a bit with "light silicated" new formula oldschool american IAT coolant.

If that civic was my car and was packed with rust, I would citric clean it first mildly (aluminium stuff cleans easy) to not greatly affect the corroded waterpump inside. Then refill with caltex/havoline as its easiest to get and use.

the caltex/havoline product is actually GM dexcool OAT with 2 ingredients of the recipe missing otherwise chevron would need to pay GM for the name. Its fantastic stuff to be honest but has one caveat. Unlike the japanese P-HOAT and european S-HOAT products, OAT coolant relies on keeping the entire systems walls wet for protection and that too requires about 10,000 kms of service for the antioxidants and passive additives to fully take effect.

While the other salted coolants, P-HOAT, S-HOAT work almost immediately like the old IAT stuff, they go in and coat the metal surfaces with a sacrificial layer which is replenished by the coolant itself and goes stale as it ages. This is why when you see a GM product engine disassembled the coolant passages are literally shiny squeaky clean like a brand new item, while neglected german and asian origin engines have hard deposits.

This is why when you see a leak on dexcool filled systems you see them as a black oil leak, the black is actually dust and dirt accumulating on the slick residue left behind. While on the salted coolants you see crystal formation at the leak site (bright neelum blue crystal on Honda, ruby like pink/red on Toyota and on G48 you see whitish powdered blue salt deposits, while on G05 and G40 you see white deposits like you see on a hard water faucet)

That's exactly what I've been planning to do. However, I have a feeling that after running on tap water for this long, this thing is going to spring leaks like the Jimny did, and I'll have a hard time tracking them down visually with the oily black residue.

The good thing about G48 is that the whitish-blue deposits are extremely visible, and it helped immensely with tracking down and fixing leaks and seeping assemblies like the thermostat housing, radiator fins, and the coolant lines for the turbo and oil cooler. I haven't lost a drop of coolant in many months. However, since it isn't miscible with anything that's available in the PK market and is much more expensive, it's not worth using it in a system that doesn't require it.

I may decide to get the more expensive pink Toyota SLLC premix for the Civic just because it's easier to track.

Could you please elaborate this?

I have a Cummins 6BT powered generator and use Caltex Coolant. The bottom part of Radiator Cap that is immersed in Coolant remains free of rust whereas the top part of the cap gets rusty. Is this because of this coolant chemistry? Any solutions for it?