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May 2014
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May 2014
9d ago
afnan.bashirSenior PakWheeler
Posts: 2099Joined: Jan 2013
May '14
2

After having this thread serve me and many other, i intend to utilize this to serve community because it has plenty of useful information on it.

If you are having Problems with your AC System or want to ask something for understanding or even want to contribute by answering you are welcome here.

Avoid any conflicts and honor the people helping you out here as they take time to go through your questions and help you to their best possible efforts.

Respected Cool Dudes who help you @Xulfiqar @SER_GTR @capsat
and me of course :slight_smile:

Important:
YOU NEED YOUR HIGH AND LOW SIDE PRESSURE READINGS TO DETERMINE WHAT IS THE PROBLEM.
HERE IS NOW

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There are 1044 replies with an estimated read time of 188 minutes.

talhabinomarSenior PakWheeler
Posts: 2872Joined: May 2011
May '14

I have Civic 2005, the symptoms of A/c was it put load on engine alot.
I was quoted Rs. 25K for fixing it incase all the parts were to be replaced.
But the bill for it was Rs. 4500 as it only needed service and the cabin filter was changed as the ac was not serviced by the previous owner. About the gas as far as i know the gas to be filled is R134a. As the ac have compressed gas, i think there was a little oil present in the compressor as some of the gas is converted into vapours/ watery mixture and upon leakage that material was leaked. IMHO, until your car's ac is not been opened for service, nothing can be said. its all gamble !!!!

afnan.bashirSenior PakWheeler
Posts: 2099Joined: Jan 2013
May '14

Last year the compressor was installed and cooling coil was washed or serviced what ever they say. I doubt that my car still has the orignal dryer or filter may be it is clogged

talhabinomarSenior PakWheeler
Posts: 2872Joined: May 2011
May '14

There is a part called evaporator, check it including all the other parts, still there can be a chance of blockage in the lines of ac. it can be one of the reasons that ac is giving load on engine and ac is shutting off.

XulfiqarSenior PakWheeler
Posts: 42216Joined: Aug 2003
May '14

your car was built with R12 heat exchangers, you can run R134 in it with very good performance if you fit a parallel flow condenser in it and make sure you have very strong cooling fans.

The dryer is a standard liquid line dryer but only install a genuine part of denso etc. make sure you use the correct oil in the compressor - do not use universal A/C oil that shops use, R12 and R134 require different oils.

afnan.bashirSenior PakWheeler
Posts: 2099Joined: Jan 2013
May '14

Most Mechanics use R134 i guess

Questions:
1. Do we need two condensors? like i have one in front of radiator do i need one more? if its PITA we better stick to R12?
2. I dont remember last time the mechanic put oil in compressor he just installed it.
3. How can we identify the oil differences. Hope they have mentioned R12 or R134 on them.

afnan.bashirSenior PakWheeler
Posts: 2099Joined: Jan 2013
May '14
Xulfiqar

Ok Sorry I misunderstood your comment.
I need to replace condenser.

Internet says i need to change the fittings too High and Low Lines?.

Also EricTheCarGuy says that if drier are not under pressure they absorb Moisture and get saturated so i guess all original ones at Bilal Gang should be doomed. Ill have to Buy new ones.

OR

Refill R12 which is standard design for my car. Not sure compressor can handle it or not.

When speaking of figures

Condenser will cost me something like 7000
Drier 2000
Refil and Gas charges 2000

its heavy investment :frowning:

or i pay someone to fill R12 :slight_smile:

saadkhangulPakWheeler
Posts: 827Joined: Apr 2011
May '14

First you need to diagnose the real issue. The reason of excessive load is that the gas is not moving freely in the sysytem, the dryer might be clogged due to moisture, the front condenser might be clogged, some line might be bent, gas may be overcharged or ultimately given you got a kabli compressor, it may be nearing its end of life.

saadkhangulPakWheeler
Posts: 827Joined: Apr 2011
May '14
afnan.bashir

There is not much issue of gas here. Older system designed for r12 gas can run on r134. But the newer ones designed for r134 cannot run on r12. For running r134 in r12 system, you need to change the compressor oil to a r134 based one and a dryer designed for r134 and the high and low lines if they are of r12.

XulfiqarSenior PakWheeler
Posts: 42216Joined: Aug 2003
May '14
afnan.bashir

the drier is shipped with a vacuum seal or even some refrigerant to keep it good. As soon as you open the plastic stoppers the dessicant is exposed - you have now time window of about 1~10 minutes to install it if you are in humid weather.

when reusing old A/C hard parts like lines etc. I wash them with acetone and use nylog on O rings. The oil to be used is mentioned on the compressor itself, dont dump all of it in the compressor - put a few ml here and there around the system like the evaporator, dryer etc. Once done pull a vacuum and inspect.

XulfiqarSenior PakWheeler
Posts: 42216Joined: Aug 2003
May '14
saadkhangul

There is a huge issue of gas here - when you fill R134 in an R12 system you need approximately 80% weight only and even then the performance is not anywhere equal to the original system.

The only way you get good performance is to replace the condenser with a very good parallel flow unit - R134 is a very stubborn refrigerant and does not take change in temperature as easily as R12 does.

saadkhangulPakWheeler
Posts: 827Joined: Apr 2011
May '14

hmmm...... seems that i was mislead about it. Thanks for correcting. And is there such thing as different gases as per local ac guys, "AMREEKANN GAS and CHAINAA GAS" ?

XulfiqarSenior PakWheeler
Posts: 42216Joined: Aug 2003
May '14

the amrican and china gaess is a problem of selling misleading product - use same logic as buying anything else in Pakistan.

afnan.bashirSenior PakWheeler
Posts: 2099Joined: Jan 2013
May '14

@xulfiqar please point out or add if anyting is not correct in my plan

  1. Get drier changed with Denso (1500)
  2. Fill R12 (1600 per KG), though not sure if need one kg or less
  3. Get R12 Compressor Oil (250/ Liter) not sure what quantity is required
  4. Change O- Rings
  5. Get Cooing Coil serviced. (Confused here. I dont want mechanic to wash it with water from inside so i wont let him pass water)
  6. I plan to keep system to R12, is that ok?

However the AC dude says you are making mistake, R12 is old school and no one uses it has no result. I said Sahi tu fill ker dain bas baqi mere tension h.

Question:
1. How to make sure the AC System is not restricted. I dont wana push air with my mouth as it would introduce humidity.
2. How much oil goes into compressor ?
3. How much Gas should i give?

XulfiqarSenior PakWheeler
Posts: 42216Joined: Aug 2003
May '14

the original fill capacity of gas was 790~800 grams, the oil was approximately 120 ml (dry fill) - this was spread across the whole system, meaning some in the compressor, some in the condenser and some in the dryer etc.

To flush the hard parts - firstly if your system has baffles in the suction line, that cannot be flushed, you need to replace the line, Use Acetone to flush A/C lines and use compressed air clean the acetone and finally purge with nitrogen if you can.

Replace the expansion valve with a new and genuine part, use a single capillary valve. The twin one is obsolete and no longer available. It basically has a bypass built into it.

make 1000% sure the condenser is good and the O rings are installed with nylog (A/C supply shops sell it).

Do not let your technician charge the system by inverting the cans - liquid can damage the valve plates in the compressor. Let the system suck on it own power, to get the last bit of gas out of the can get a pan of hot water and dunk the refrigerant can in it as it is charging.

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afnan.bashirSenior PakWheeler
Posts: 2099Joined: Jan 2013
May '14

@Xulfiqar thank you for detailed post, clears most confusions.

  1. How can I know if i have Baffles?
  2. What i think is I put Acetone in Car Paint Can and spray the Condenser, Evaporator and Pipes. Correct?
  3. How to know if condenser is 100 % exterior shape is good though should i try to pass compress air to see if it is restricted?
  4. Can we inspect and see if expansion valve is not clogged or go for replacement straight away? i wonder if i can find OEM for my model.
XulfiqarSenior PakWheeler
Posts: 42216Joined: Aug 2003
May '14

you can still buy the original denso expansion valve and dryer for your car. what sort of condenser is in your car at the moment?

afnan.bashirSenior PakWheeler
Posts: 2099Joined: Jan 2013
May '14

It is serpentine type because OEM is above type. And I have original one

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XulfiqarSenior PakWheeler
Posts: 42216Joined: Aug 2003
May '14

the serptentine condenser was original to your car. flush it with acetone - you will see a lot of junk expel from it.

afnan.bashirSenior PakWheeler
Posts: 2099Joined: Jan 2013
May '14

Finally found a guy who days he uses ctc to flush. Will work?

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