Busy day for the little guy today. While the radiator was out and a new one was being made from scratch, I decided to have the timing system done.
The existing belt was a Mitsuboshi MFSZ2003 that was last installed, if the sticker on the firewall is to be believed, in February 2015. That means it's 8 years old. Even though it seemed to be in decent condition, it's time for a change.
The replacement belt I found in Plaza claimed to be a Mitsuboshi MFSZ3003, for Rs. 950. Unfortunately, this is a fake. Mitsuboshi does not manufacture a product with this model number. In addition, the remnants of the markings on the old original timing belt were quite different. The genuine article is a Mitsuboshi MFSZ2003.
I ordered a genuine belt, a SUN A318YU100, and a genuine tensioner, a GMB GT90620, from Japan. They cost Rs. 10,000.
I'm very disappointed in Alpha Motor Tech. While they were replacing the head gasket earlier this year, I asked them to change the cam and crank seals, inspect the timing belt and tensioner, and inspect the valve clearance. They had the car for three days, and called me on the last day telling me that there was a risk of breaking the crank pulley, so they wouldn't do the seal. What they didn't disclose is that they butchered the crank pulley trying to take it off.
We tried gently taking it off, but it wouldn't budge, no matter how much penetrating oil, gentle hammering, wiggling, prying, and WD-40 we tried. Besides, if the pulley or its key breaks, the car is immobile until I get a new part. It's about $100. Yeah, not gonna happen.
I also noticed the crank wiggling as we manipulated the pulley - probably worn thrust bearings + crank bearings. This will be relevant later.
Anyway, Alpha Motor Tech didn't check the valve clearances either. More deception. It's so easy to just say "yeah we checked the tappets, they're fine."
Every single tappet was loose when my mechanic checked them. The manual specs cold clearances at 0.15mm intake and 0.17mm exhaust. He set all of them to 0.15mm intake and 0.18mm exhaust, and had me verify the clearance myself.
The water pump was a GMB S-24, probably an older version of the currently available GMB GWS-24A. It seemed fine, so it wasn't changed. Besides, I didn't have a new genuine one, only a backup cheapo SAC part of dubious origin.
On went the new tensioner and the new belt. For some reason, the hole on the end of the tensioner that holds the spring had to be bent slightly so it could clear a bolt that was in the way. Strange.
Because my intercooler had to be taken off, I had a look inside the throttle body to see if it needed a sarviss. Look how filthy and disgusting this throttle body is. It has never been cleaned in my ownership.
Teflon? No, NASA Carb Cleaner to the rescue.
By the time the timing was complete and the crank turned a couple times to verify it, the radiator had arrived. Brass top and bottom, copper "jaali", a drain petcock I requested, and a thread for the temp switch for the electric rad fan. Rs. 20,000.
Cranked it, started instantly, quieter than usual. No overheating. Filled with ~3L of Glysantin G48 at 50% concentration. System takes 4L. Waited for the thermostat to open, and it did without issue. Temp gauge showed 64°C.
Going for a drive, it never rose beyond 70.8°C. Started off gentle, then revved higher and higher, up to 6500rpm, and the engine feels stronger and more "put together."
However, I now notice significant noise from the crank under load. Idle oil pressure with Havoline Extra 10W-40 API SL is more prone to sitting at 60-70kPa than it was before. I will switch to Mobil1 5W-50 FS X2 ACEA B3/B4 as soon as I can. There are no conrod bearing/crank bearing/piston ring rebuild kits available in Karachi for the F6A turbo as far as I'm aware - so this is an unfortunate but necessary stopgap.
Drove a good solid 25km, revving up to 6500rpm, and the car is fine. Removed the CO resistor to see if it was doing anything.
Updates, 1 day later:
It misfires under heavy load without the CO resistor, but that's the alternator, and that's for another day, I guess. Just part of the package. Keeping the 100ohm resistor in place takes back fueling just enough that it doesn't misfire under load.
Also changed out accessory belts, Bando SP-RAF V-belt for the alternator and water pump and a Bando Rib-Ace 4PK760 for the A/C compressor.
Finally, switched to Mobil1 FS X2 5W-50. Oil pressure is higher at hot idle, which is good - closer to 80-100kPa.