Yes, I definitely have. Speaking of which, it's been about 600km on the new oil, let's see if it is burning any. Other than that, I can't see any reason right now to put a catch can in - it'll just become another maintenance item. The hose on the valve cover leads straight into the intake just before the turbine.
Also, the oil was changed (or topped up) at 0km, 1400km, 1800km, 4000km, 5000km, 7000km, 7200km, 8000km, 8600km, 9400km, 9500km, and 10000km while I sorted all the problems out. That's basically an oil change a month for a year of ownership. If it's not sparkling clean and free of deposits now, I don't know what it is.
In other news, switched out the old alternator with a Mitsubishi A1TA1491 55A junkyard unit from the local alternator shop guy. Comes from a Subaru Sambar with the EN07. Two wire setup, bigger chassis and wider mounting holes that needed a good bit of jugaad and forcing to fit, as well as a pulley swap from the old alternator, but the performance is significantly better. I'm not quite rid of the misfire just yet, especially with AC on, but it is so much more manageable! Interestingly enough, my temperatures are now much more consistent. At nighttime idle, 24°C ambient, my water temp thermocouple reads 65.5°C when the fan turns off, and 75°C when it turns on.
It also seems like I need one more parallel zener diode to sink more current from the MAP sensor. I don't have data on these diodes, though, and they probably have an NTC due to being 5V that means mfg. tolerances cause them to share current unevenly and possibly undesirably alter the zener voltage. Alternatively, I'll just drop the boost slightly.
Next up: is the outside bottom of the sump a good place to monitor oil temperature? I've put together a magnetic thermocouple that I'll install in the morning.